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“Wallfahrt zum Wein”, zo luidde de kop van een in Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung verschenen artikel over de wijnen van de gebroeders Stephan en Georg Schwedhelm. En zo voelde het ook een beetje voor mij, toen ik naar het noordelijkste stukje wijnbouwgrond van de Pfalz toog, hier rondwandelde in wijngaarden met welluidende namen als “Wotanfels”, “Kreuzberg” en “Schwarzer Herrgott” en kennismaakte met de compromisloze Rieslings van de Schwedhelms: “Diese Brüder wollen nur Weine keltern, die so eigenwillig sind wie sie selbst.”, aldus FAZ. Eigenzinnig, maar met een duidelijke signatuur: Alle wijnen worden immers door kalk getypeerd, en dit willen de broers vertolken: “Er gibt ihnen Eleganz, Finesse und … eine ganz feine, fast kreidige Aromatik, in der immer wieder gelbe Früchte, Ingwer und Quitte schmeckbar sind – sehr apart. Und sehr lecker.” Maar “Pfälzer Barock ist hier unerwünscht.” Zo beschrijft journalist Frank Ebbinghaus heel treffend de stijl van dit Weingut.
Het plaatsje Zell kent al een lange traditie van wijnbouw: De Ierse monnik Philipp stichtte hier in de achtste eeuw een klooster en plantte stokken aan, om in zijn behoefte aan miswijn te kunnen voorzien. Op één of andere manier had hij er een neus voor, want het kernstuk van de beste wijngaard van Zell: Schwarzer Herrgott, was de Pfarreiwingerd. En laat deze nu in bezit zijn van de familie Schwedhelm …. Helaas verkeerde het Zellertal lange tijd in een doornroosje slaap, totdat ….
Stephan (jaargang 1979) in Geisenheim afstudeerde en begon mee te werken in het ouderlijk bedrijf. Later gevolgd door zijn broer Georg, die een studie bedrijfskunde achter de rug had.
Zij zagen de waarde van het uitzonderlijke terroir in (FAZ: “Die Reben stehen auf massiven Kalksteinböden mit Toneinlagerungen, die Wurzeln müssen also schuften und ackern, bis sie sich durch den Stein zur Wasserquelle gebohrt oder sogar gesprengt haben. Ausserdem liegen die Weingärten ungewöhnlich hoch, dreihundert Meter sind keine Seltenheit. Und sie werden ständig von einem kühlen Wind gekitzelt…”) en gooiden alles over een andere boeg: het aantal druivenrassen en de opbrengsten werden gereduceerd en het zwaartepunt verlegd naar Riesling en Burgunder-soorten (80%). De wijnen worden nu met oog op de individuele wijngaarden (en percelen) opgevoed en zijn stuk voor stuk zeer droog. Sinds 2014 werkt het bedrijf volgens biologische principes.
Dat dit inmiddels zijn vruchten heeft afgeworpen blijkt uit het feit dat de gebroeders zijn opgenomen in de talentenpool van de VDP en uit de positieve recensies in de toonaangevende wijngidsen Gault&Millau en Eichelmann. Maar waar ik nog blijer van word, is de uitstekende prijs/kwaliteit van deze wijnen:
2018/19/20 Riesling trocken Zellertal € 11,95
2022 Silvaner Zellertal € 12,95
2023 Scheurebe Zellertal € 12,95
2023 Chardonnay Zellertal € 12,95